2) I could abate some of this by siliconing the OD of the escutcheon instead of relying on its (smaller OD) rubber seal. Great site my man. Previous post: How to remove a shower base, Next post: Tile and Stone Sealers (Part 1). Use included rubber seal…how to attach to the kerdi? I’ve decided to have my privacy violated and start putting things on Facebook. It's been full of water since 2001? I am now wondering if the 12×24 tiles will hold securely with All Set. :), It was actually Feb., 2002. I know I can use silicone around the opening behind the tile so water behind the tile can wick around it, but how do I prevent water from getting behind the substrate? Pure, or 100%, silicone is the premium caulk for jobs exposed to water. 21 CFR 177.2600. They wish I would. But wait, I just sealed the gap where the tile meets tub flange, also with silicon, so there is no way for the water to drain into the tub! —doesn’t bond to thinset (wet or dry), right? The product is really only part of it, the application is just as important. In addition, silicones have more special properties than normal rubbers. BUY NOW Rule #4. My DH used a 1/8" x 3/16" V-notch trowel the first day . and for bonding to glass and plastic. Once you get your escutcheon (the metal cover plate) on there no water will enter through the front of the tile, then any water behind your tile will run around the dam. With that much work at that point it would actually likely be easier to replace the floor. As I have a brand new tube of the stuff. Paint the redgard right up to the holes. Hey all, With Kerdi-fix at $20 a tube, I want to use something more economical but just as effective. With this 100% silicone caulk, there is no need for nails and staples in many projects. Yes, you can. Not sure why it costs so much (besides the Kerdi name). Dave has been watering it ever since. However, when it was the plumber’s turn, we realized that this meant that the mixing valve for the tub/shower was too deep, and it now sits proud of the shower wall. They will not suggest its use for primary seaming or for areas that might be constantly wet. Schluter Kerdi fix was recommended earlier in the thread. I live in michigan where the winters are cold if that helps with the answer. I am in the middle of shower remodel. I understand how to seal the pipes and mixing valves, but what about the ‘other’ valve openings (I’m using a hansgrohe thermostatic valve, and have three other valve openings for the shower head, hand shower, and rain shower). When cured and washed, the product meets the requirements of FDA Regulation No. Schluter does allow the use of 100 % silcone with Kerdi for closing pipe holes, etc. So that brings my next question: do I need to do more than simply pack the new (and hopefully correctly sloped) mud deck onto the existing tile? I’ll have to get you a six pack for this probably…two beers isn’t enough. Just grab a tube of silicone and stop overthinking it! Just install the new mud deck and tile away. Ok ok ok Kerdi fix it is, doing this ( with a popsicle stick ) I feel totally secure about using Kerdi on sheetrock wet wall. Nvm that’s a yes… this is an awesome thread. Or am I just supposed to wait to do any waterproofing for those holes until I apply the tiles? You may have answered this elsewhere, but I was reading your traditional shower waterproofing guide and had a quick question. The cutouts for the shower head, shower or bath controls and any other fancy stuff you saw in that magazine. I need to leave this clean out accessible, but how do I keep water from running down the shower wall tile and infiltrating this clean out door. This ensures the fleece will be 100% covered in thin-set. The shower was never built quite right. I don’t know why they would want you to leave it in there unless it’s part of the seal for their trim. No considerable moisture is going to get to that area anyway. Do I just paint the redguard right up to the holes? Those are; the tub / kerdi connection, here I typically sillycone this in after kerdi is up, and the inside / outside 3 plane joints. :D. Getting raggdy from the condensate of the ice cubes when we fill it with bottle water and ice, but hate to throw it out. It is also noteworthy that most silicones labeled as 100% RTV, are still not food grade. I bought the Kerdi 1/8" x 1/8" sq notch trowel the next day. Embed the KERDI in the KERDI-FIX and work the membrane onto the substrate to ensure full coverage and remove air pockets. Okay, don’t slam it up there, place it up there carefully and press firmly to ensure full contact. If you are using the traditional method and have your waterproof barrier behind your substrate (like in these pictures) you’ll need to silicone the perimeter of the barrier to the back of your backerboard. 4) I have bought larger OD escutcheons where available, but some not available. We chose to do this method but you can also buy special Schluter tub spout covers. The next step is to embed KERDI-BAND into the KERDI-Fix to make the tub to KERDI-BOARD transition 100% waterproof. I have one question though which I’m unclear about. Certified by NSF to NSF / ANSI Standard #51.Safe for incidental food contact. We are using tile for walls and mosaic for shower floor and I want to know if any additional waterproofing materials other than backer board need to be applied before or after the backer board and was told not to put any holes in fiberglass coating so is there is need to do that that at all for any reason? (Picture 2). Either the technique above or you can use schluter valve seals on them (just google it). Something more or less obvious? Schlüter-KERDI-FIX is an elastic installation adhesive made of an MS polymer. You can also use KERDI-FIX to waterproof where the tub spout comes through the KERDI-BOARD. You have to make sure it actually says 100% silicone on the tube and doesn’t say anything like acrylic, paintable, or cleans up with water. Can you just silicone the part where the cement board meets the drywall Instead of taping? Water doesn’t run sideways. and runs down the wall, it will run around the bead of silicone and continue down the wall into the tub or shower base and into the drain. Now once you get your hole cut out in your tile flip it over so you’re staring at the back of it. If so, how far? I don't recall any metion of sillycone or KerdiFix. That thing doesnt stick. I used it in a few spots on my shower floor with kerdi membrane, and flood tested it for 4 days straight with no leaks. Kerdi to the tub lip eh..........NICE :) :bow: That's it then, done deal. 100% silicone will perform better than “extended”. This multi-purpose leak sealer waterproofs and protects gutters, skylights, flashing, roofs, RVs, campers, windowsills, foundations, boats, cars, concrete, glass, metal, and more. There's is an epoxy offered by a competitor that works OK. Once of our clients gave the Again, thank you so much. Both rubber and silicone are elastomers. Maybe I’m just not understanding your concern correctly? Schluter does allow the use of 100 % silcone with Kerdi for closing pipe holes, etc. It seems that very little water would penetrate that small exposed annulus (3/8″ wide) of tile face that is inside the projected radius of the silicone dam. So the contractor came and layed cement and did the flow or slope for drain and plumber has done what he needed to do so today they came back and did the fiberglass coating over the concrete floor and frame. :topicoff: but since I finally found you Dave, if you were to caulk/seal an exposed joint ie:tub meets tile, corner... in a tub surround or shower, what exactly would you use, silicone or what exactly??????????? It seems that your method above is perfect for this type of installation, but before I go hacking this together, I just want to confirm that this is the correct course of action. Our patented Polymer Bonding Process (Patent No: 10,577,521) The Ultimate Guide on How To Bond/'Glue' All Silicone Types and Products Silicone is the go to polymer when cushioning and/or sealing is the objective. After reading many online forums, I read there is a standard off the shelf limestone sealant which does virtually the same thing, but is < 1/4 the price. Now all you need to do is shoot a large bead of silicone all the way around the perimeter of the hole. Silicone is a material that is found in adhesives, caulk and sealants. No need for thinset behind it, just screw it to the studs through your existing substrate. My shower project is coming along (slowly but surely), but I have a question regarding one of my walls. My plumber and tile guy say not to worry—they’ll just make the tile hole smaller than the Hardi hole, so the escutcheon will seal against the tile. The pipe must be dry before you apply the silicone; this allows the silicone to set up properly. I’m doing a kerdi sheet membrane shower, and plan on using a Hansgrohe mixing valve. I stick the Kerdi to the tub lip with modified thin set -- Versa Bond. 4. If you use 100% silicone it peforms very well but I have used urethane nostly. Crafters and artists may find that this clear silicone sealant is a great choice for sculpting and picture frame assembly. That and seeing the condensate on the plastic with our open wall cavities in the training areas when using liquids is what has made me a strong believer in sheet products and using felt. 100% silicone products are not paintable. It’s about 1.5″ in diameter. What do you think about Kirdifix? One of the problems with waterproofing a shower is the fact that you NEED to have holes in it. I have plenty of room under the floor to access the drain and pipes there….what I’m curious about is an idea of simply adding a second drain into the floor. One week later i was able to peel out the Kerdi bands off the kerdi boards. This way eliminates it. Curing silicone isn’t necessarily difficult, but it does require patience. 2) I’m using Kerdi over Hardi. Nice looking job though Steve. ;). What this does is create a dam of silicone around the perimeter of your cutout. In a nutshell, caulk is used in a tub or shower enclosure to keep water from creeping up,under or around the tiles at joints between tile and the tub or shower pan,or on joints where walls meet. (Picture 1). I could tie them together below the floor….BUT….I have no clue how to make sure I have a seal around my existing membrane so as to not have problems with water doing what it does so well and go where I don’t want it to go. There really is no easy solution to it. Performance Of 100% RTV vs. Extended. You can click on any of these photos to view a full-size version. But, perhaps when everything is put together, that isn’t really a concern? Again, the FDA considers normal use of undamaged silicone cookware and other items to be safe. OK, but what about the silicone dam behind the tile? Rubbers are naturally occurring, or else we can synthesize them, but silicon is only synthetic in nature. :D. I'm thinking of taking the mud course in march, maybe i'll do it just so's i can say i drunk sumthin outa that box :yipee: GabeS I like to bring the board down to the lip and the tile down past the edge of the board to the tub. :). What should I do? Just happened to fall on a seam in the substrate? The plaster guard is removed before the trim pieces are put on. My next project is to tile a shower using Kerdi membrane. Should I attempt some sort of additional or extended silicone dam from the back? Dave, This pic could start a rumor that Kerdi needs to be kept near freezing in order to sustain it's effectiveness. Nope, use it. After using the Kerdi Fix from Schluter that is my favorite adhesive type silicone for wet applications and where white is OK (since I think that is the only color it comes in). :shrug: It would depend. Dunno Steve, I have used silicone and i know it sticks to it. Hedgehogs like apples. If you get enough silicone on there you’ll be able to run your finger along the perimeter of the cutout after you install your tile to smooth the silicone. View Full Version : Silicone vs Polyurethane on Kerdi. Unlike in other ela… Thanks John, everyone.....In a shower, primary concern to me is sealing around the shower valve, in case any water gets past the escutcheon. I am still a little confused about how to waterproof around the holes. And an apple. They just flat out don't leak. The material does not yellow over time and has high resistance to oxygen, ozone and UV light. When the water gets nasty, every few months, we pump it out with a tile saw pump. Never tried that one, used Vulcum, Bostic, Dow, Precora, and Sonoborne. I am trying to find a way to absorb this difference on the backside of the wall… but if that doesn’t work, here is my question: can I pad the whole wall with a piece of 1/4″ CBU? 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